Material
Led Approach:
Following on my research, I have made a PinBoard with inspirational examples of 'reveal and conceal concept in textiles by artists, textile designers, and fellow students.
This project focuses on material and how the material responds to the process and
what visual outcomes follows. Using light as the main element, we are experimenting with various materials and observing,
and learning from the visual outcome. This sounded to me like an open invitation to play.
There are several workshops suggested in
the workbook. My approach is to try, record and
respond. Can I generate further ideas? Therefore I am going to explain my trials with each piece I have
produced.
Knitted structures:
Investigating light within
textiles, I am drawn to choose yarns, and fabric with light-reflecting properties. I need to create gaps, spaces between stitches, to let light
through. To achieve that, I used thicker knitting needles with thinner yarns with
reflective properties. The sample is very soft, and structure is very stretchy, can be pulled to produce non-uniform shapes. My reaction was to
stretch and pin it to another surface. This exaggerates the gaps in stiches and
creates organic but disorganized gaps.
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| S Payne - Knitted Net Sample 1 |
Next sample I tried to use a combination colourful
yarn of contrasting properties soft vs. hard, wool vs. paper yarn, thick vs.
thin. I also used different stitches to create space between rows. I ended up
with a deformed rectangule. The paper yarn
stitches created beautiful gaps, and light shone through produced lovely
shadows.
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| S Payne - Knitted Net Sample 2 |
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| S Payne - Knitted Net Sample 2 |
For next sample I am tuning the colour down and knitting with thin grey wires and stretch film. I used ordinary stretched film,
making it into a yarn. The wire stitches
are firm but there is still movement in them. The stitches doesn’t fall even which
creates spontaneous shapes. Knitting with stretch film is an absolute
nightmare because it constantly sticks to the needle making it hard work. But I very
much liked the opaque white sheen of the stitches. It is more rigid then the
wire.
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| S Payne- Knitted Net Sample 3 |
Woven structures:
I am keeping my black and white theme for
my first weave example. Keeping it simple to observe effects of light without
the help of colour. I might have gone a bit crazy with the variety of materials
I used: steel wool, paperclips, shiny crochet yarn, wool, pieces of fabric, net
curtains and packaging material. I used fishing line as wrap. All is good fun.
Fishing line is slippery and weft doesn’t sit securely. It is a loose
structure. Contrast with wool is great. Creating baffling texture, soft wool with
sharp metal bits. Steel wool is dominant catching light and drawing your eye to
it.
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| S Payne- Woven Sample 1 |
Next sample is all about colour. I am using silk,
plastic, and wire, sewing thread, coloured acetate sheets. Transparent coloured
materials will change the light, its intensity and its colour. Like a
photography filter you put in front of your lens. Acetate sheets are not
flexible unlike plastic wrapping sheets. Plastic sheets created lovely folds
once pressed during weaving. Silk thread picks up shine and I dare to say
change colour very subtly sandwiched between plastic sheets. This sample gave
me the best photo shot with light source was behind.
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| S Payne- Woven Sample 2 |
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| S Payne- Woven Sample 2 detail |
Using Laminator:
Laminating is kind of
addictive! The process heats and squashes the material and reveals
further properties. I have trapped feathers, paper, nets, tread, yarn, etc.
One of my favorite samples is the one with
the paper thread. The thread is delicate but strong and flexible enough to knit or stich
with. I use it for crouching usually. Laminating exaggerated its structure.
Made it flat and wider. I wanted to capture its texture more and decided to
photocopy it. I played with its scale and decided to make a collage, hoping
that this collage can be developed into a print. I think this is a good example
of the benefits of material led approach. This very investigative approach drives
ideas without over thinking. It is a “doing” approach, not “thinking” approach.
Having said that, not all ideas sparked had been good. I managed to waste quite
a bit of time.
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| S Payne- Laminated Sample 1 |
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| S Payne- Collage made from Laminated Sample 1 |
My second best sample is inspired by Bauhaus.
Bauhaus is a well known movement, which doesn’t require much introduction from
me. I always loved the
work of Moholy-Nagy, especially his photograms and light sculptures, playing
with light, creating forms with shadows. Bauhaus defines modernity, as we know
today. Very simple shapes, beautifully designed functional spaces, no
compromise on artistic spirit in everyday objects. They believed they could
design a brand new world, in which good design and artistic vision joined in
harmony. Technology (and in it photography) is a big part of this world. Their aesthetics
consists of simple but geometric forms.
But simplicity is difficult to achieve.
The sample I made look painfully simple too. But it is very difficult to find
the balance. You can't juxtapose any colour or shape and expect it to work.
Producing this sample, I patiently tried many combinations, and in the end I had
to roughly sketch one before I finalized it. I must say I am pleased with the
result. It is subtle but effective and laminating kept its transparency.
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| S Payne Laminated Sample 2 - Bauhaus Inspired |
References:
Borchart-Hume, 2006, Alberts and Moholy-Nagy from the Bauhaus to a New World, Tate Publishing.
Batik
Technique
This is extra curriculum nonetheless
I attended a batik workshop with textile teachers Emma Hobbs and Norma Kennedy in June 2016 and I wanted to include the pieces I produced. We used the technique on paper and fabric (cotton voile).
Using wax as a resist we worked with layers building shapes and colors
gradually. I think this way of working is a great example for reveal and
conceal concept. The technique is controllable but open-ended. You work with
latent layers, some reveal unexpected results. It is great way to produce
patterns. The teachers also showed us to collage patterns to create further
patterns. The organic nature of the patterns is flexible and can be developed
further with collage and stich. I also loved to work with semi transparent
fabric. The colors come alive when light is shone through them. Here are some of my samples.
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| S Payne- Batik on Paper Sample 1 |
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| S Payne- Batik on Paper Sample 2 |
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| S Payne- Batik on Cotton Viole Sample1 |
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| S Payne- Batik on Cotton Voile Sample- Freehand drawing |
Manipulating
Techniques:
For these samples I used heating, machine
and hand stitching, and soldering iron. For heat manipulation, I used synthetic
materials, and fabric. With heat gun, it is possible to concentrate heat on certain areas, which can create a pattern. I tried to do it with my orange
plastic wrap. I then photocopied the sample, which emphasised light and dark
areas. I worked with silk, organza, netting curtains, all of which produce
patterns and marks on the material. The more heat applied, the stiffer/harder
the material becomes and more disintegration occurs. I made some small samples
with soldering iron, however, my soldering iron broke with the first use. I
like the cotton and silk sample the best, as they have burnt marks on them.
I did also manipulate bubble wrap with heat
and linear lines appeared within the circular structure of the material. I
applied acrylic paint to emphasize these lines. This inspired me to stich it. I
hand stitched a second sample with subtle colors. Because the material is
already transparent, the back shows and stich doesn’t sit on the surface it
wraps the form. I really liked this effect. Bauhaus inspiration is obvious
here.
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| S Payne- Manipulating with Heat Sample |
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| S Payne- Sample Manipulated with Heat and Stitched |
Later I produced machine-stitched samples
on transparent fabric, free machine stitching, fusing and sandwiching samples. Here are some of my samples:
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| S Payne - Silk, organza and Angela Fibers Machine Stitched |
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| S Payne - Another Machine Stitched Sample Detail |
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| S Payne - Hand Stitched on Laminated Packaging Material |
